Foods

PastryJoe, while writing about the history of Irish Sourdough Bread, traced the history of chemical leavening agents, potash –> pearl ash –> saleratus (as opposed to the more ancient technique of only yeast as leavening agent). Visit his first entry and then click his upper right links to finish at saleratus. Great reflections on history!

Then you can pick up the timeline of chemical leavening agents at History of Baking Powder by Whats Cooking America. Additionally, Rumford Baking Powder was first available in stores in 1859.

Baking powder has been made with different ingredients at different times: now baking powder is made with sodium bicarbonate and monocalcium phosphate, or, sodium bicarbonate and sodium aluminum sulfate, or just calcium acid phosphate. Corn starch is often an ingredient added to postpone activity if the baking powder is in contact with moisture, allowing the baking powder to be active later when it is heated in the oven.

Note from wikipedia: “…In times past, when chemically manufactured baking soda was not available, ash water was used instead, especially in confectionery. Wood ash is also weakly alkaline. To prepare ash water, one used a fistful of ash from the fireplace in a big pot of water. Ash from solid woods, such as the olive tree, is preferred, whereas resinous woods, like pine, cannot be used. The ash water is given a boil, then left overnight to settle. The water is then filtered through a cloth and is ready to use. Many traditional recipes call for ash water instead of baking soda, because of some unique qualities: for example, ash water dripped on hot vegetable oils congeals into a gel-like mixture…”

Asides:

  • The word potassium is derived from the word potash.
  • When cooks switched from potash, or pearl ash, to saleratus, they could use fewer eggs.

Misty makes homemade butter look easy. God bless Misty with her informative youtube channel.

Oysters were popular in the 1800s. What happened? According to The Independent in the UK, oysters were popular in the 1860s because they were affordable, and bulked up expensive dishes, such as meat pies. By the late 1800s oysters were more expensive and popular. Meat was now the ingredient bulking oyster pies. People consumed oysters that should have been used to re-seed oysters beds, and during war, oyster-beds were neglected. Here is an oyster cookbook from 1913 on facebook claiming that oysters weren’t as expensive as they seemed.

Because they take on the taste of the water whence they’ve come, oysters are the perfect vehicle for reflecting the ocean quality. Drew Smith wrote a guide to tastes of oysters from different locations in Europe, located at the end of The Independent‘s informative oyster article. And a quick google search pulls up a company who ships fresh oysters overnight.

3 helpful videos to watch before ordering your fresh oysters:

oyster cookbook.

Skip the introduction to 4:00 minutes into the video, and listen to the enjoyable lecture by Dr Megan Elias about the history of lunch.

Listen to little known facts about wild game, narrated while cooking breakfast. Slow to start. See video.

Enter the immense yards [in 1898] beneath the plain, massive arch that bears the inscription, “Union Stock Yards, Chartered 1865″ and you will readily grasp the meaning and value of the system. It is a region of order and death, but a sight that will stir the most casual onlooker or the deepest philosopher. It is a city in itself–a city of pens and factories, immense and noisy. Wherever the eye wanders, the most intense activity prevails….In 1865 there were 330,301 cattle received and shipped live, and 27,172 cattle and 507,355 hogs packed. — The Chicago Packing Industry eBay Auction

Sugar

by Rena

A bag of sugar slumps on the cover of the book written by Elizabeth Abbott Sugar: A Bittersweet History or you may prefer to read Peter Macinnis’s earlier book Bittersweet: The Story of Sugar

Here’s a sketch of the adoption of sugar:

1000s+: mostly used in medicines, also sultans, caliphs [New Guinea crop] “A Persian visitor claimed that in 1040, the sultan’s bakers transformed 162,000 pounds of sugar into a life-sized tree and other sweet replicas.” — Sugar: A Bittersweet History

1400s+: Royals, nobles, knights [addition of Mediterranean crop]

1500s+: European merchant class. [addition of New World crop]

1600s+: working classes

Gourmet picnic with tomato displays and exhibits sounds fun and worth exploring if you’re in the neighborhood of Minot, North Dakota during the Great Tomato Festival. There are about 28 more tomato festivals in the United States including the Thomas Jefferson Tomatoe Faire in Virginia, and the Heirloom Tomato Festival in Santa Rosa, California.

1860s

by Rena



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1860s New Cooking Gadgets

  • Eggbeater with rack-and-pinion movement
  • Chuck wagon 1866

1860s New Foods

  • Perrier water
  • Canned pork & beans
  • Canned soup
  • Tabasco Sauce
  • White Rock Spring Water
  • Peerless Wafer
  • Cold breakfast food (Granula)
  • Gulden Mustard Fish & Chips (England)
  • Folgers coffee (pre-roasted & ground)
  • McDougall flour (English) in US
  • Peanuts as snack food
  • Text printed on “Conversation” candy
  • Fleischmann’s compressed yeast
  • Eggs Benedict (Delmonico, 1860)

1860s New Food Companies

  • Arm & Hammer
  • Cargill
  • Bassett
  • Schrafft
  • DelMonte
  • Bay Sugar Refining
  • Royal Baking Powder
  • Chase & Sanborn
  • Goodman’s Matzohs
  • Ghiardelli
  • Nestle
  • Tobler
  • Armour meat-packing factory: 1868
  • Chicago Union stockyards: 1865
  • Louis-Dreyfus, grain trader

1860s Food Industry Beginnings

  • Pasteurization – sterilization by heat & pressure: 1864
  • Demonstration of starch produced by photosynthesis
  • Roller mills (stone)
  • Flour mill with middling (bran & outer grain layer) purifier
  • “Patent” flour (double ground)
  • Mechanical refrigerator: 1861
  • Ice machine: 1865
  • Ovaltine testing
  • Salmon cannery: 1864
  • Tin can with key opener
  • Thinner steel for cans
  • Machine-cut cans
  • Calcium chloride added to boiling water, speeding canning time
  • US Pretzel bakery 1861

1860s Farming Progress

  • US Department of Agriculture Homestead Act
  • Marsh reaper
  • Check-row corn planter
  • Massachusetts Agricultural College (UMass)
  • British Food & Drugs Act
  • Union starves South during Civil War
  • Wheat futures
  • Wide-scale cattle theft (rustling)
  • Steam trawlers import fish to England (thus, “fish & chips”)

1860s Timeline

1870s

by Rena

Baking animation by Rena Goff

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1870s New Foods

  • Saccharin
  • Cubed sugar
  • Synthetic vanilla
  • Rootbeer
  • Wheatena
  • Nestle’s Infant Milk Food
  • Milk chocolate
  • Ice cream soda
  • Commercial production of margarine
  • Japanese beef-eating taboo ends (c. 1870)
  • Chewing Gum from chicle
  • Tone Brothers [spices and coffee]

1870s New Cooking Gadgets

  • Can opener with cutting wheel.
  • Four-tined silver fork, beginning the end of eating with knife.
  • Square bottomed paper-bags.

1870s New Food Companies

  • Lipton
  • Pillsbury & Co.
  • F. & J. Heinz
  • Quaker Mills
  • Hills Brothers
  • Grand Union Tea Co.
  • Confectioner’s Journal

1870s Food Industry Beginnings

  • Milking machines
  • Glass milk bottles
  • Orange crates
  • Pressure cooking in food canning: 1874
  • Frozen meat shipments: 1877
  • Mechanical cream separator
  • Porcelain rollers make roller-milling flour (wheat germ removal) standard practice
  • William Underwood first to register U.S. food trademark (Red Devil)

1870s Farming Progress

  • Bison herds disappearing
  • Large US agricultural exports
  • European farm land shortage
  • Quantity banana imports to US
  • Long-distance cattle driving
  • Barbed wire fences
  • Vast US acreage for farming and cattle ranches

1870s Timelines

1880s

by Rena

1880s kitchen

1880s School of Cookery

mason jar.

1880s New Cooking Gadgets

Hand cream-separators
Lenox China
Ball-Mason jars introduced [invented in 1857]

1880s New Foods

  • Malted milk
  • Powdered pea and beet soups
  • Evaporated milk
  • Aunt Jemima Pancake Flour
  • Coca-Cola
  • Moxie
  • Dr. Pepper
  • Thomas’s English muffins
  • Oscar Mayer wieners
  • Salada Tea
  • Tetley Tea
  • Log Cabin Syrup
  • Morton’s salt
  • Canned meat and fruit in stores: 1880

1880s New Food Companies

  • McCormick Spices
  • R. T. French
  • Maxwell House
  • B. H. Kroger
  • ConAgra
  • White Lily Foods
  • Lever Brothers
  • Calumet Baking Powder
  • Diamond Crystal Salt
  • American Cereal
  • Manischewitz
  • Pillsbury-Washburn Flour Mills
  • L’Ecole de Cordon Bleu

    1880s Food Industry Beginnings

  • Packaging of grain commodities
  • Efficiencies in railroad meat shipments
  • Pea-viner and podder machine
  • Commercial aluminum production
  • Ice-making plants start replacing ice-cutting industry
  • Self-service restaurant
  • Vending machines for gum 1888

    1880s Farming Progress

  • Long cattle-drives end as railroads enter Texas

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1890s

by Rena

1899 cook book, American Pure Food Cook Book & Household Economist.

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1890s New Cooking Gadgets

  • Electric range (though unreliable)
  • Aluminum saucepan
  • Chantilly silver pattern

1890s New Foods

  • Minute Tapioca
  • Condensed soup
  • Fig Newtons
  • Canned pineapple
  • Knox’s Gelatin
  • Shredded Wheat
  • Canada Dry Ginger Ale
  • Grape Nuts
  • Cream of Wheat
  • Postum
  • Jell-O
  • Tootsie Rolls, 1896
  • Swans Down Cake Flour
  • Uneeda Biscuits
  • Entenmann bakery products
  • Pepsi-Cola
  • Wesson Oil
  • Cracker Jacks
  • Bottled Coca-Cola
  • Crepes Suzettes
  • Oysters Rockefeller
  • Published brownie recipe
  • US brunch fashionable English lunch
  • S&H Food Stamps
  • Public school hot lunches
  • Beef Stroganoff

1890s New Food Companies

  • Quaker Oats
  • Beech-Nut
  • Beatrice Foods
  • National Biscuit
  • Baker’s Coconut
  • Smucker
  • Hobart
  • American Beet Sugar

1890s Food Industry Beginnings

  • Bottle capping machine
  • Vacuum flask
  • Automatic bottle-blowing machine
  • Electric coffee mill
  • Diner
  • Full page food ad in national magazine (Van Camp in 1894)
  • Coca-Cola Company bought for $2,300
  • US pizza parlor
  • 57 Varieties ad campaign
  • Campbell adopts red & white labels (inspired by Cornell football uniforms)

1890s Farming Progress

  • US gasoline tractor
  • Butterfat measurement
  • Wheat futures hedging

1890s Timelines

Cuba New York is home to the Cuba Cheese Museum housed in a modern building, but here is a photo of an early cheese manufacturing plant (click their history tab) along with commercial cheese-making history from upstate New York to Wisconsin.

Acorns

by Rena

Acorns are everywhere in October…you may wonder “Why don’t we eat these?” The answer: they are bitter. But early Americans used them, and Jackie Clay describes how to process them to taste sweet and includes a few recipes! Jackie Clay’s online archive.

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Maple Syrup

by Rena

Maple syrup making in North America… Visit the Maple Museum in New Hampshire with a taste-testing bar and authentic sugarhouse, and the American Maple Museum in the Adirondack region of New York. For another syrup sweetener, see Sorghum.

Red River Valley Sugarbeet Museum in Crookston, Minnesota appears to focus on farm equipment….Harvest Festival in September.

In the early 1800s America had her own native spices and herbs, and merchants from Salem Massachusetts still traded for exotic spices from the far east.

Mid-1800s refrigeration in ships lessened the status and prices of the spice trade, but demand and competition was still keen.

1869: a spice mill was added to Hulman & Company’s [Clabber Girl] grocery store wholesale business.

1873: Tone Brothers, Inc. founded and still located in Des Moines, Iowa, today is perhaps second in volume to McCormick, and distributes Durkee Spices, Fleischmann’s Yeast, and Spice Islands products. Tone is also the leading supplier of spices to national warehouse club chains.[1]

1889: Willoughby M. McCormick founded McCormick Spices in Baltimore, working out of one room and a cellar. The initial products were sold door-to-door and included root beer, flavoring extracts, fruit syrups and juices. Seven years later, McCormick bought the F.G. Emmett Spice Company and entered the spice industry….

“Make the Best – Someone Will Buy It.” [2]

Late-1900s: Fewer home cooks drastically decreased the volume of the spice market.

At the Laurel Valley Village/Plantation Museum and Country Store in Thibodaux, Louisiana you can visit the sugar cane plantation museum and view the outside of the historic sugar cane farming village left intact. Like

Milk from cows? — it’s true! If you knew that, and want to know more about dairy farming, The Iowa Dairy Museum is a go-to source.

Modern Cereal

by Rena

Some of the processed items it would be great to duplicate from scratch are:

  • blue corn taco chips
  • flour
  • corn flakes, or similar flaked cereals

The first two require a common household mill. But corn flakes? How do the cereal companies make flaked cereal? Flaked cereal has been around since milling machines have been around, and earlier when done by hand. But they make small flattened grains–oatmeal, for example. Here is a site that inspired me to try to obtain an Italian oat rolling mill or flaking machine by the name of Marcato. And the following photos are of an antique Roller Mill in the process of making flaked wheat from hulled wheat, similar to the household Marcato.

But what we’re looking to make at home are large crispy flakes, such as corn flakes. In 1894 Kellogg invented a recipe of boiled grain in paste form, which was then dried and roasted. In 1906 malt was added as a sweetener which began their commercial success with corn flakes.

Now all major cereal companies make an adaptation of the corn flake and we found one of the machine suppliers for making them:

Baker Perkins is one of the companies that manufacturers the machines that make corn flakes and extruded cereals.

A bakeryandsnacks.com article mentioned that the flaking process consists of converting “grains or extruded pellets” into flakes ready for toasting. And Baker Perkins mentions “wheat and bran flakes [use] the traditional steam cooking process…” and “Other units can be added later to extend the product range to include corn, multigrain and frosted flakes…and…extruded cereals such as corn balls, multigrain rings, alphabet shapes, and cocoa balls can be extended, through additional units ”

Sounds like fun! Let’s write to them and ask them to make a small version for the home kitchen! Or tell your inventor friends. : )

Baker Perkins cereal machine manufacturer: Follow-up

On September 6 [2009] I emailed Baker Perkins using the form on their website and asked them if they knew where I could get their cereal-flaking and extruding machine for home use. A long shot, but who knows?

As of December 7, 2009 I haven’t received a reply, so at this point I’m not expecting a reply.

Vintage Instructions for Making Corn Flakes

I bumped into a few more hints about the making of corn flakes.

Corn flakes are manufactured by passing corn, after the removal of the hull and the germ, between hot rolls. The corn before going to the rolls is cooked so that the starch is gelatinized. The pressure of the rolls is sufficient to flatten out the corn into flakes and the heat of the rolls dries them. The flakes turned out for use in doughs for the baker are so treated that none of the starch is converted into yellow dextrine, nor is any color produced in any other way, the product being pure white. A similarly prepared flake, which has practically been toasted, is sold widely for use as a breakfast food, but on account of its color and characteristics cannot be used for bread-making. — Baking Materials Part Three, 1923, Siebel Institute of Technology.

Sorghum was introduced to the American colonies in the early 1600s by African slaves from the Gulf of Guinea, but the wild plant had its origins before the Christian era. Sweet sorghum has been widely cultivated in the U.S. since the 1850s for use as a sweetener. Sweet sorghum syrup tastes like a lighter version of molasses.




The Maasdam family of Maasdam Sorghum Mills in Lynnville, Iowa demonstrated making sorgham via a horse-powered mill at the Old Threshers Reunion. Stalks of sorghum grow like corn, but are about 10-15 feet in height. It is harvested in September by first removing the leaves and then cutting the stalks. The stalks are then milled and the green juice of the stalks is strained and cooked down into a thick brown sweet syrup.



The stalks are then milled and the green juice of the stalks are strained and cooked down into a thick brown sweet syrup.

. . . . .

Sorghum festivals in the U.S.

Meringue

by Rena

Meringue was popular in Europe the early 1600s and was called Italian Biscuit. More egg whites were added by the end of the 1600s [no, not to the same batch, Tom! : ) ] to make the super-light meringues.

Grain Mill (Dried corn to corn meal flour)

Hand-turn Grain Mill (Dried corn to corn meal flour – view from above)

Grain Mill (Dried corn to corn meal flour)

–Early 1900s grain mills at the Old Threshers Reunion in Mt Pleasant, Iowa, 2009, above–

Historic crushing and grinding of grains may get you wondering if you should duplicate this process to serve baked goods and cereals with more nutrients. Search online for grain mills. Modern equivalents to these grain mills range from small hand-crank home-kitchen mills to commercial grade mills. Here is a comprehensive site: Pleasant Hill Grain.

One of the grain mills was described as being able to also grind coffee beans. Do you have a coffee mill grinder at home? I’m not sure if this use will harm the coffee grinder in the long run, but when I realized I have a mill already, I ran to the bucket of fresh wheat that was taken off the plant stock not 5 hours before, and ran them through the little electric coffee mill that I bought at Borders store. What do you know — it produced a flour!

This wheat, above, is part of the batch that was threshed and ended up in my coffee grinder hours later. The next video is the people threshing the wheat that ended up in my coffee grinder…





Video: Noisy steam-powered threshing machine

Visit St Clair County Farm Museum in Michigan during their “Old Fashion Harvest Days” for a demonstration of a steam-powered threshing machine.

Wheat can also be harvested by hand and threshed by hand.

Sonya Welter instructs us on how to thresh wheat by hand: “Gather the stalks into bundles and thresh by beating, shaking or stepping on it. Winnow to separate the wheat from the chaff, and store the whole wheat berries in a cool, dark place. Process into flour or bulgur as needed.” Here is a link to a 1947 method of threshing wheat from Gambatesa, Italy.

Visit a Mill Museum

A list of old mills is available
at the Historic Mills page.

Corn Sheller – Red Wooden Case

Corn Shelling

Corn Sheller




Above are some antique corn shellers that were at the Old Threshers Reunion in Mt Pleasant, Iowa, 2009. Manual corn shellers were improved enough to work smoothly by the 1870s. See the a picture of a corn sheller from 1870.

The early shellers required manual feeding of the cobs of corn; later, and now, they automatically feed into the corn sheller by a conveyor.

Check out our investigation on how to make corn flakes and other cereal.